LEDDA Vermentino di Gallura, Solianu 2020/21 Bottle

Description

Sardinia has seen more than 75% of its vineyards removed up since 1990. Extreme poverty allied to generous EU subsidies has led to widespread grubbing up of older, less productive vineyards. It’s a great shame as the island is blessed with an ideal climate and the viticultural legacy of multiple invaders. As far as white grapes are concerned, Vermentino is the stand-out star of the show, and this unoaked version from Ledda is the best. The vineyard is planted on weathered granite where the vines struggle to survive and produce such a meagre crop that the resulting wine is rich, oily and coats the mouth with notes of tinned peaches, lychee, tangerine and a herbal twist.

Tim Jackson MW "This is showing the features I associate with fashionable Vermentino, of a ripe lemon character that for me is reminiscent of the zest of a waxed lemon, alongside a clear herbal note – sometimes like lemon thyme, sometimes bay leaf. But this expression, from the variety’s heartland Gallura, is also showing an attractive balance between weight and ripeness, and its lift of acidity. This mix of distinctiveness, intensity and refreshment is what makes Vermentino (or Rolle, in southern France) such an exciting variety, whether in Gallura – Sardinia’s DOCG for the grape – or in places such as Bolgheri that are also producing very interesting examples. Either way, Soliànu certainly merits its DOCG Superiore status. 16/20."