Description
Born in 1973 in Florence, Italy, Bibi Graetz comes from a family of artists, which profoundly influenced his winemaking philosophy. He studied art and sculpting before eventually turning his passion to winemaking, which he considers an art form in itself.
In the late 1990s, Bibi Graetz started his journey in winemaking by acquiring vineyards in the hills of Fiesole, near Florence, Tuscany. These vineyards, some more than 200 years old, became the foundation for his winery, Azienda Agricola Testamatta, which translates to "Crazy Head Farm."
One of Graetz’s fundamental principles is to work with traditional Tuscan grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo, but with a contemporary and artistic approach. He believes in organic and biodynamic farming practices, respecting the land’s natural balance and allowing the terroir to express itself in his wines.
Bibi Graetz’s winemaking style is characterised by small production, meticulous attention to detail, and an experimental spirit. He embraces minimal intervention during winemaking, preferring to let the grapes speak for themselves. The result is wines with a distinct sense of place, displaying the unique flavours and characteristics of the Tuscan terroir.
His wines have gained widespread recognition and critical acclaim for their exceptional quality and distinctive character. Some of his most famous wines include “Colore,” a complex and age-worthy red blend, and the “Testamatta” series, which includes “Testamatta” and “Testamatta Rosso,” showcasing his commitment to crafting exceptional Sangiovese wines.
Decanter 97/100
Tasted by: Georgina Hindle (at Bordeaux, 01 Aug 2023)
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2045
Beautifully fragrant on the nose, delicately scented and inviting with subtle wild flower scents, red and black berries and sweet spices. Chalky and powdery tannins support super bright acidity which gives this such a sharp, thrilling and lively expression. Tannins are super fine but have a spiced edge that grips and holds interest, supportive but not overpowering, letting the acidity and bright fruit flavours shine through. Beautifully delineated and expressed, elegant, refined, totally beguiling yet with layers of flavour and intensity and such a long finish. Feels supremely drinkable and that is such a feat at this young stage. Well worked, balanced, and enjoyable with flashes of heat and spice dotting the finish. Really wonderful and totally charming.
James Suckling 98/100
26 Jun, 2023 – Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense linear tannins that are ultra-fine in texture. It's fresh and salty with a brightness and focus. Minerally and crisp. pH is 3.4 highlighting the strength of the acidity. Crunchy. Salty. So delicious now but this will age incredibly well..
The Wine Advocate 96/100
Drink Date: 2024 – 2045
The 2021 Testamatta is Sangiovese sourced from various hilltop vineyards spanning different cool microclimates. The ideal is to underline the transparency and fragility of the variety. Fruit from the Olmo Vineyard plays a big role and “gives a strong imprint to this wine,” Bibi says. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violet, rose, forest green and candied orange peel. Bibi says 2021 was generally warmer than 2020, but all three vintages—2020, 2021 and 2022—are considered hot. He is upbeat regarding 2023 thanks to all the rain. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives this wine (with 120,000 bottles made) a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are lightly managed and the oak framing is down to an elegant minimum. Bibi buys 1% new oak each year, and his oldest barrels date back to 2003. He does not pull leaves, and he employs methods that do not concentrate his fruit so he can safeguard the typicity of Sangiovese. Winemaking is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and bright. He strives to keep alcohol contents below 13% - Monica Larner
