Description
Born in 1973 in Florence, Italy, Bibi Graetz comes from a family of artists, which profoundly influenced his winemaking philosophy. He studied art and sculpting before eventually turning his passion to winemaking, which he considers an art form in itself.
In the late 1990s, Bibi Graetz started his journey in winemaking by acquiring vineyards in the hills of Fiesole, near Florence, Tuscany. These vineyards, some more than 200 years old, became the foundation for his winery, Azienda Agricola Testamatta, which translates to "Crazy Head Farm."
One of Graetz’s fundamental principles is to work with traditional Tuscan grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo, but with a contemporary and artistic approach. He believes in organic and biodynamic farming practices, respecting the land’s natural balance and allowing the terroir to express itself in his wines.
Bibi Graetz’s winemaking style is characterised by small production, meticulous attention to detail, and an experimental spirit. He embraces minimal intervention during winemaking, preferring to let the grapes speak for themselves. The result is wines with a distinct sense of place, displaying the unique flavours and characteristics of the Tuscan terroir.
His wines have gained widespread recognition and critical acclaim for their exceptional quality and distinctive character. Some of his most famous wines include “Colore,” a complex and age-worthy red blend, and the “Testamatta” series, which includes “Testamatta” and “Testamatta Rosso,” showcasing his commitment to crafting exceptional Sangiovese wines.
James Suckling ***** 99/100
26 Jun, 2023 – Intense aromas of purple fruits such as raspberry, spice, lead pencil and granite. Perfumed flowers as well. Full-bodied, tight with poised tannins that show transparency and focus. Crunchy and very long. Better after 2028 when it opens and integrates beautifully.
Decanter 99/100
Tasted by: Georgina Hindle (at Bordeaux, 01 Aug 2023) Part of September fine wine releases on La Place de Bordeaux 2023
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2045
Another excellent wine from Bibi Graetz made from selected old-vine Sangiovese. Herbal and spiced on the nose, fragrant but with savoury aspects rather than overtly floral or fruity. Intense and direct, this hits you square on, with energy and forward motion. So sleek and well defined, smooth yet lively and energetic with tannins that are so beautifully executed. Almost plush and chewy giving weight and texture to the palate while actually being quite light and aerial overall. Complex and invigorating, fresh and wild at the same time - I love the character, it's pure but with a sense of authenticity that encapsulates the terroir and winemaking philosophy so wonderfully. Ends with a minty, liquorice, spiced blackcurrant and cool cherry element that is extremely moreish!.
The Wine Advocate 98+/100
Drink Date: 2024 - 2045
The Bibi Graetz 2021 Colore is Sangiovese from old vines, but otherwise, winemaking and the oak regime is identical to the other top red, Testamatta. In this case, fruit comes from the Lamole area with vineyards at a high 600 meters above sea level. Some are south-facing but high up on the mountain. As Bibi explains: “Colore delivers power and freshness, whereas Testamatta delivers transparency and freshness.” The Colore shows the pure energy and liveliness of Sangiovese with violet, wild cherry and orange zest. The wine delivers an elegantly earthy side with a very delineated mouthfeel driven by very fine, silly tannins. This is a beautiful wine with delicately sweet cherry on the finish. Bibi has been making little changes to this wine over the years (other than giving it a new winery home in Fiesole) to capture an ideal or benchmark for Sangiovese. His 2021 is his best wine yet. Production is 35,000 bottles, which is slightly lower compared to the last vintage. - Monica Larner
