Champagne Salon & Grand Cru 2004 Bordeaux Tasting at Beaumont
13th February 2025
What a night to remember!
We are very fortunate at Dunell's to have the opportunity to share some of the world's most legendary wines with like-minded enthusiasts here in Jersey.
To celebrate the beginning of the New Year, I found it challenging to choose between hosting a Salon Champagne event or a Bordeaux event. So, why not combine both to make the evening even more special?
So, on Thursday 13th February, we popped the corks to compare four vintages (2012, 2007, 2006, and 1997) from the unique Champagne house created by Eugène-Aimé Salon. It was fascinating to observe the distinct styles depending on the conditions of each vintage, as well as the evolution of his Blanc de Blancs. All Salon vintages undergo prolonged lees ageing (usually ten years or more before being disgorged), and the house claims that, due to the superb quality of fruit from the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, 'Cuvée S' will age magnificently for several decades. The fact that Salon conserves bottles from nearly every vintage since 1921 is a true testament to its legacy.
All four opened vintages were remarkable. Since they are at very different stages of their lives, I couldn’t choose a favourite. The 2012 vintage, known as 'The Smile,' was gorgeous, vibrant, and still just a 'baby,' putting a big smile on everyone's face—a great start! The 2007 vintage, called 'Shining Light,' was elegant, coming from a cooler year. After 13 years of lees ageing, it was somewhat introverted, but I have no doubt it will blossom for those who are patient. The 2006 vintage, referred to as 'The Romantic,' was much more generous, showcasing amazing structure. It has a great future ahead, but I would happily drink it today! Finally, the 1997 vintage, with its magnificent evolution and rich fruit balanced perfectly with a backbone of acidity, texture, persistent mousse, and a silky finish. It truly stole the show. Wow!
After such an experience our very own Maddie and Chris created a range of delicious canapés using the best local ingredients, preparing everyone's taste buds for part two. It's fantastic to have two ex-chefs as part of our esteemed team at Dunell's!
So part two focused on the 1855 classification of top Bordeaux wines. I was intrigued to see how selected Grand Cru Classé wines from the 2004 vintage would compare. I intentionally chose a classic vintage rather than a richer, more concentrated tannic year that would need another decade to reveal its full potential.
After 20 years of ageing, the 2004 vintage did not disappoint. All four wines were opened eight hours before the event and were perfect.
The Château Palmer 3ème Cru (decanted five hours ahead), which has the highest proportion of Merlot and the least amount of new oak (60%), started a little angular but opened up beautifully, showing excellent richness, concentration, and fine tannins, along with the aromatic floral typicity of Margaux.
The Léoville Las Cases 2ème (also decanted five hours prior) had a much higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. It revealed class and purity, starting somewhat restrained but ultimately showcasing the true elegance and harmony of Saint Julien, with delicate herbaceous and cedar notes and superbly silky tannins—definitely an earlier drinker.
We then moved to Pauillac to compare the superb 1er Cru Classé wines of Latour and Lafite, both of which had been decanted for eight hours. As expected, Latour displayed much more flesh and imposing structure, along with phenomenal energy and perfectly rounded tannins. It is still in its early development, with tertiary notes not yet revealed, yet it is superb and will require some more patience.
Finally, we served the much-anticipated Château Lafite. It provided a perfect balance of richness, vibrancy, and notes of graphite and cedar, all while maintaining sensuality and purity. This wine, for me, is in a different league—with its effortless elegance and terrific concentration, all while remaining refined. It was such a pleasure to open a bottle of this gem, knowing it will continue to develop over the next two decades.
Thank you so much to everyone who chose to be part of this very special evening and cheers to many more exciting events to come!
Kasia Konys-Pieszko - Head Wine Buyer and Educator
Images by Oliver Pinel